Running a pub is hard work. Running a pub that is out of the way and has little passing trade is harder still. Then imagine that the same pub has seen a massive decline in trade after being run into the ground for a number of years. When the lease for the Mitre in Richmond became available in 2015 Chris French knew he faced an enormous challenge when he declared his interest. The pub was in a poor state, tired and unloved. A couple of weeks spent decorating, stripping and restoring the wood floor and sourcing new furniture and the pub was ready for reopening.
The land where the pub sits was leased by Young’s in 1853 but the Mitre didn’t get built for another four years. Young’s applied for a spirit licence in 1857 but this was refused owing to an objection by the landlady of the nearby Black Horse who bemoaned the general depression of trade. The licence was eventually granted five years later in 1862. Over the years it has been bombed twice during World War Two and badly damaged by storms in 1990. Owned by Richmond Church Charities until 1989 it was then acquired by Young’s. The brewery sold it in 2012 to a local charity who lease it out as a freehouse.
Originally from Widnes Chris started working in hospitality at the age of 14 washing dishes. At 16 he was collecting glasses and finally began working behind the bar at 18. in 1999 he moved to London, ironically working at the Stag Brewery in Mortlake for a while. Moving around London he spent 5 years pulling pints at the Hawley Arms and the Crown and Goose. Spells at the Pub on the Park in Hackney and 3 Crowns in Stokey followed before he decided to branch out on his own.
After considering a number of pubs he took over the Mitre in November 2015. He knew the area well having worked at Edwards in Richmond in the past. From the onset daytime trade was virtually nonexistent. ‘I’ve spent a couple of years sat on that bar stool looking at the front door willing customers to enter’. It took a lot of work and patience to build a loyal customer base, work to turn the pub into a destination rather than just a local. Eventually in 2018 it started to pay off with increased takings enabling him to take a couple of days off each week. When one server moved on he even asked me to help, a single shift at Christmas that turned into a six month stint.
The pub doesn’t offer tea or coffee but a range of seven cask ales, four ciders, craft beers and carefully curated wines. Interestingly, the cask beer range only features brewers that are situated outside the M25. Chris always makes room for charitable events and used to be the venue for our beer group to hold its monthly bottle share. In the build up to Christmas trees are available for sale from the beer garden.
Things began to look up in 2019 but then the pandemic hit us in early 2020 and the pub closed like everyone else. Lockdown decimated many industries with hospitality particularly hard hit. During this time improvement works took place with investment behind the bar and in the cellar. The bar billiards table was replaced by a pizza kitchen and The Mitre was ready to open its doors again. So the hard work started over with customers being tempted back to the pub from the comforts of home and cheap supermarket beers.
A lifelong lover of music, especially 90’s hip hop music plays a prominent part in the Mitre’s life. Playlists are always on the go and a rota of 9 musicians take turns to deliver sets every Sunday between 5 – 7pm plus special occasions. Richmond’s biggest screen shows sports events such as the Six Nations and Wimbledon. The pub has a mature feel to it with an airy atmosphere during the day, terraces out front and in the back beer garden and by night the mood is lightened by candles and subtly dimmed lights. A hardcore clientele of locals are supplemented by CAMRA groups, party celebrations and visitors looking for quality beer in a traditional pub.
Every decent pub benefits from an open fire and a pub dog and The Mitre is no exception. In 2015 we welcomed Rudi to the Mitre, our very own pub dog. He is a show-type cocker spaniel who was voted top pub dog of the year 2017 in the book Great British Pub Dogs. This led to features on ITV News, The Evening Standard, Countrylife and Grazie. He recently celebrated his ninth birthday and is still hard at it, greeting customers, seeking out pizza crusts or taking it easy in one of his favourite sunny spots.
Chatting to Chris recently he reflected on the almost nine years at the pub. What attracts him to the pub game is the lifestyle, the chance to meet new people and getting to know the regulars. Unfortunately there are always downsides such as the effect on family time when you are working such unsocial hours. Recently new cooling equipment was installed which has further improved the the quality of the beers and ciders. Cellarman Matt has also invested in some sparklers to ensure that northern beers are dispensed with the appropriate collar of creamy, white foam. Time for another visit I think….
Address: The Mitre, 20 St Mary’s Grove, Richmond TW9 1UY
Contact: 0208 940 1336; hello@themitretw9.co.uk
Beer Sommelier Kew 