The Long Road South

by Beer Sommelier KewJune 22, 2023

A Belgian brewer joked to me a number of years ago that if you drive in Belgium for an hour you will then be in another country. A bit harsh to be honest. Admittedly there are parts of the country that are pretty narrow but I recall making the trip from Eupen on the German border to Brouwerij Rodenbach. Just shy of three hours. And I was still in Belgium. I took a group on a tour of Southern Wallonie and after picking up a member of our gang from Ieper, we began the long trip south via a tour of Brouwerij Deca by Pol Meersman.

As usual Pol gave an excellent tour which for the first time in my experience included the open fermenters. We finished off with a beer tasting masterclass of Dikke Jan beers. Pol also let me know that he was barrel-ageing some of his Quadruple and a month later I returned to the brewery to pick some up for Christmas. This was the last time that I saw Pol as he suddenly passed away in February. I will miss his friendship and generosity. RIP Pol.

Once you get past Brussels the drive south is pretty straightforward with long, straight roads recently resurfaced and we managed to make up some time despite the rain. Our hotel was La Porte de France with a nice bar and restaurant and a substantial breakfast. After dinner and a few local beers at Roy de la Mule (King of Mussels no less) it was time to sample the local bars with the favourites being La Vieille Ardenne, Brasserie des Ramparts and L’Artistide with its aged collection of Orval.

Our first full day in Wallonie was a northwest trip from Bouillon. First stop was the Espace Chimay – getting in nice and early and avoiding any crowds. Time for some delicious trappist beer paired with their Chimay cheese. The oldest and most commercial Trappist brewery, the brewery at Abbaye de Scourmont was established in 1862. Their four cheeses have been in production since 1876 and include a rind-washed one with Chimay beer, a semi-hard pressed cheese, the Grand Cru and the Old Chimay which have been matured for six weeks and six months respectively.

Onward to Brasserie des Fagnes in Mariembourg, this tiny microbrewery was founded in 1998 and is very popular with families and coach parties. The brewery museum includes a micro kit that produces seasonal and special brews with the more popular brands being contract brewed at Brasserie du Bocq, just off the Meuse River in Purnode. Note: a trip along the river by bike, car or especially boat is highly recommended. And while you’re there visit the Musee des Bieres Belges in Lustin. The menu at des Fagnes is substantial with their specialty being the Croute des Fagnes, a tartiflette that kept me full until bedtime. A full range of their beers was on offer and being the driver I tried the table beer Cuvee Junior with aromas of caramel and cola. Sigh…

Heading a short distance north we drove towards Lac de l’Eau d’Eeure and arrived at Cerfontaine, home to Au Pere Sarrasin and Brasserie Silenrieux. Friday afternoon meant that we had the bar to ourselves. Founded in 1991 the brasserie is situated next to the cafe and Silenrieux specialises in less-known brewing grains such as buckwheat and spelt. The gang tucked into a range of blondes, ambers, brunes, tripels and the winter beer. This is a friendly cafe on the banks of one of the streams that connect the lakes. And next door to Golden Frites Barrage no less.

As we left Cerfontaine, the night began to draw in and we had to head south on a one hour drive. We were making our way deep into the forest about 10 minutes outside our base. Brasserie Rochehaut was founded in 1996 on the crest of the valley. Family-friendly it boasts a large restaurant featuring Belgian Black Angus grills, a brewery shop and full bar next to the brewery. For children there is a play park, wildlife park and agricultural museum. Locally sourced soft water gives the beers a delicate touch and the five core ranges are supplemented by regular specials. This is an impressive brewery destination with great beer, food and service. Recommended. A 10 minute pitch black drive saw us arrive back at Bouillon where we settled in to La Vieille Ardenne for the evening.

After a delicious breakfast it was time to head south. First stop was Brasserie Rulles in Habay, founded by Gregory Verhelst in 2000. We were shown around the brewery by Olivier Barthelemy as Gregory was busy with setting up his beer festival. Rulles produce some fantastic beers and are very proud of the open fermentation with their Orval-based yeast strain (Orval also carry out lab analysis of their beers, for free!). In addition to US hops the brewery is now embracing continental varieties from the nearby Alsace region. Rulles’ dry hopped IPAs come across with great balance and refreshing bitterness, not something that you usually find in most less elegant Belgian IPAs. Everyone enjoyed Olivier’s generous tasting and we bid him farewell for a couple of hours before catching up with him at the festival.

Time for lunch at the excellent A l’Ange Gardien opposite Abbaye d’Orval. I’ve been meaning to visit for many years and the experience certainly didn’t disappoint. Even the driver had to sample a Petit Orval which at 4.5% seems to have even more fruity notes than regular Orval. Possibly the smaller version of its bigger brother has a more generous dry hop addition. The food is excellent with the full range of Belgian classics alongside smaller snacks and cheeses. I couldn’t resist a carbonnade with Orval beer and it was enough to keep me full until bedtime. The abbey is stunning, originally founded in the 11th century it was burnt down in 1793. The Cistercians hired Henri Vaes to build a new Art Deco abbey in 1926 and the brewery was commissioned in 1931. Henri designed the beer bottle and glass too. The stunning valley setting is responsible for the abbey’s name – valley of gold.

Following lunch we headed to the main event, the 20th edition of Brassigaume. Named after the local region – the Gaume – the festival was founded and is organised by Gregory from Brasserie Rulles. It’s a lovely, small, inclusive festival featuring mostly local producers plus 7 other breweries from Italy, Luxembourg, Poland and the UK (Tiger Tops). This is a proper rustic beer festival where you can buy beer and basic food with no sight of a corporate sponsor or mega brewer anywhere. The breweries were Rulles, Ermitage, Millevertus, Deseveaux, Cooperative Liegeoise, La Semois, La Source, Atrium, Cazeau, Gembloux, La Lesse, Heritage, Minne, Experiment’Ale, La Croix, De Liege, Peak, Blaughies, Rochehaut, Gzub (Pol), Bare Brewing (Lux), Tiger Tops (UK) and No Tomorrow, 50 & 50, Sagrin and EMOD (Ita). One of the highlights was Philippe from Brasserie Minne shouting ‘Sanglier’ at full bore (no pun intended) every 15 minutes – with the festival crowd answering him with the same. It ws eventually time to head back to the hotel where some of the gang opted to go for dinner and I saw out the night with some cellar aged Orval at L’Artistide.

Sunday saw the gang head East for a special request made by the group to visit Brasserie Lupulus. Founders of Achouffe, Chris Bauweraerts and Pierre Gobron had opened a brewpub in 2004 in Courtil called Les 3 Fourquets. Pierre and his sons took ownership in 2008 and renamed it Lupulus, referring to the wolf and the hop. Highly hopped and elegant, Lupulus’ beers are highly rated and sought after. The brewery is modern and has the capacity to package beers for other local brewers. During the pandemic they took delivery of much of the beer that couldn’t be sold and distilled it into a special spirit. The taproom and shop is inviting and well worth a visit if you’re in this beautiful part of Wallonie.

Sticking with the theme we headed off to another beautiful nearby village and the home of the eponymously named Brasserie Achouffe. Since the take over by Duvel in 2006 the brand has expanded its reach worldwide. You can still visit the tasting cafe and shop, sit back and sup a Chouffe and admire the gorgeous view.

It was then time to head across the country past Brasserie Fantome, Comte Hener and Inter Pol and to stop at a couple of cafes along the way. Our final destination was the legendary Brasserie Caracole in Falmignoul near Dinant. Founded in 1990, this family-owned wood-fired brewhouse began life in the late 18th century. I last visited about 20 years ago and it hasn’t changed a bit. A lot of their beers contain spices with varying degrees of success. I plumped for a Nostradamus which was delicious. Soon it was time to leave and head back to Bouillon for our farewell dinner at the always excellent Hotel de France Auberge d’Alsace.

Finally it was time to leave Bouillon and Wallonie. After a quick supermarket visit it was back on to the highway for the three hour drive to our lunch stop. Lunch was at Koffehuis de Hofnar in Gullegem. Run by Gabi and Frank they offer delicious snacks, pastries, lunches and deliciousBelgian beer from small producers. Originally from Germany Gabi kindly gifted me a delicious Hopperbrau Helles from her hometown. This is a perfect place for breakfast or lunch and the beer range is superb. Note: bring cash as they only accept Belgian payment cards.

Last but never least was a visit to my dear friends at Brouwerij ‘t Verzet. Alex treated us to a great tour and ran through the brewing process before the highlight which is always the barrel room. He then took us through the range of beers – the regulars, oud bruin infusions and bootlegs. I never tire of visiting these guys and after enjoying tours from Koen, Leopold and Alex over the years its interesting to see how each member fo the team has their own focus and way of delivery.

Following a quick shop at Verzet it was time to make the one and a half hour drive to Calais and onward to London. Such a great trip with a lovely group of people who made it a special tour. I would urge you to visit Wallonie if you haven’t done so already. Its beauty is stunning and there are lovely beers to be found there.

Cheers!

Photo credits Richard Landon

Brasserie de Bouillon

by Beer Sommelier KewJune 29, 2016

I love this little brewery located in Bouillon which is situated within the Luxembourg region of Belgium. It used to be located at Le Marche de Nathalie, 22 Grand Rue but had to re-located as demand for the beers grew. I purchased these beers at Nathalie’s shop, which celebrates its 22nd anniversary this year while I was there last summer and I had a chat with her reminiscing about my first visit many years ago when a bottling plant ran through the centre of her place. This was to bottle the celebrated Cuvee de Bouillon, reviewed here and which tastes fresher somehow when enjoyed at one of the many taverns in town. Nowadays beers are produced off site and the Brasserie de Bouillon produces six regular beers plus ‘tailored’ beers for villages and groups according to their specific recipes. It’s a real treat to taste a range of their beers, all different but retaining many of the same characteristics.

I really love this Walloon Blonde, more so when drunk in Bouillon and I certainly tried a few when we visited again last year. An amber/orange beer with a neutral thick white head, the aroma is malty, hoppy, honeyed and caramel sweet. The taste is classic, creamy and full-bodied with hints of orange peel and a balanced hop bitterness. The finish is slightly hoppy, dry with more bitterness coming later. ABV 6.5%

A nice white head tops off this Golden Witbier. The aroma is of lemons, pears, vanilla and baking soda. The taste is peachy and lightly sweet with malts, spice, citrus peel and wheat. The finish is slightly floral, acidic, dry and more soda. ABV 5.5%

Their ambree beer is dark amber with an off white head. The nose is malty and hoppy with caramels and honey tones. The mouth is a delicious mix of subtle hops, caramel malts, orange peel, toffee and (again) soda. A dry and sweet finish. Lovely. ABV 6%

The ‘Baker’s Beer’ for nearby Botassart, site of the Giant’s Tomb is a light amber blonde beer with a thick white head. The aroma is sweet with caramel and pears, slightly floral, spicy and soda (again). The taste is sweet with hops, malt, bicarb and the mouth is foamy. The finish is slightly hoppy and yeasty with spices and orange marmalade. ABV 6%

La Biere du Boucherons — La Biere des Bucherons

This ‘Woodcutter’s Beer’ is brewed for the village of Sugny which lies north of Sedan near the French border. A hazy tangerine colour topped with a white head, the aroma is creamy, hoppy and sweetly spiced. The mouth is spritzy with more of the signature bicarb and has a taste not unlike a vanilla cream soda. The finish is dry, bitter and malty. ABV 6.5%

This Bier Brune is dark ruby-red, almost brown, crowned by a thick white head of foam. The nose is toffee-sweet and reminiscent of malt loaf. The taste is full-bodied and creamy with caramel malts, chocolate milk, coffee grounds and raisins. A dry, bitter and sweet finish. A treat and I wish I had bought more of this. ABV 7%

A lovely selection of beers, some classics and others quite samey. The best way to taste these is in Bouillon itself, a beautiful town amid fabulous scenery. Hotel tip: Auberge d’Alsace, a bit old fashioned but a bargain and the best food in town. http://www.aubergedalsace.be/fr

http://www.brasseriedebouillon.be

Beer hunting, summer 2015

by Beer Sommelier KewOctober 29, 2015

After a short trip to Flanders in July I went back to Europe in August with the family and was able to indulge in further beer hunting. First stop was my old friend Namur, staying at the always excellent Hotel Les Tanneurs whose grill restaurant is a special treat. Le Chapitre pub near to the Cathedral on Rue du Seminaire always keeps a strong beer list and in the beautiful afternoon weather we enjoyed Queue de Charrue tripel brewed at Van Steenberge, ABV 9%, Goliath Tripel, now named Gouyasse from Geants, ABV 9%, the wonderful Malheur 10, ABV 10% and the just plain daft Cre Tonnerre spiked with rum from Silly, ABV 7%. All accompanied by the ubiquitous fromage et saucisson!

I also managed to sneak off to the oldest pub in the city, Ratin-Tot on Place Marche aux Legumes where I had a cheeky sample of their house beer, Blonde de Chavee which is commissioned from Silenrieux. ABV 8.9%

Departing Belgium, we made our way to Troyes in Aube, France. A beautiful city, I enjoyed the local Biere de Garde Valmy Blonde, now made by the brewery in Orgemont accompanying my andouillettes a la moutarde. ABV 6.5%

Staying in the Foret de Orient, a short drive from Troyes I also tasted another local beer, the blonde from Le Moulin de St Martin, less full-bodied than the Valmy. ABV 5%

Moving on to Challons en Champagne, which punches well below its weight considering the amount of praise it receives. Very middle class, very dull. However, our hotel for the night, Auberge Des Moussins was up the road towards Epernay and was a fantastic find – superb accommodation, quality restaurant with local produce, great wine, pool and their house beer – also brewed by Brasserie Des Orgemont – fortunately this was the only disappointment, very thin and weedy.

Onwards to Colmar, Alsace and a feast of Alsatian wine, wurst, choucroute, etc. Stayed on the wiessbier as the temperature was too high for beer hunting but while in the Marche Couvert de Colmar found a guy selling wines and local Biere d’Alsace! There is a beer scene brewing in this part of Alsace so I will need to get back there and check it out.

Colmar Biere d'Alsace — Colmar Biere d’Alsace

Next, a nip across the border into Germany to Cochem, which wifey and I hadn’t visited for about 23 years! We spent our time there mostly enjoying Mosel wine when not sightseeing, however I was very happy to enjoy a half litre of Weinenstephan for 2 euros in our hotel overlooking the river, bargain!

We then headed back into Belgium and the Ardennes. First stop La Roche en Ardenne on the Ourthe River, scene of lots of fighting during the Battle of the Bulge. The beer scene here is rather understated but we did enjoy some Tripel Karmeliet at the Ardennaise on the river and a fine selection of Ardennes beer at the Bronze in the middle of town. I can also recommend the mini golf at the rear of the Hotel de Liege, the only course I know that you can buy from a range of Trappist beers to enjoy before, during and after your round.

La Roche’s other claim to fame is the fantastic beer shop Cave de Venitien, full of beers from around Belgian Luxembourg. Apart from a case of mixed Christmas brews from 2014, I also picked up the local beer, La Feodale de la Roche. This deep amber beer is named after the chateau in La Roche and is brewed by Brasserie Saint-Monon in Ambly. It pours with a thick creamy head but had virtually no aroma, just hints of malt and grass. The taste is also grassy and very thin with only hints of malt, caramel, vanilla and cream. The finish is bitter and slightly reminiscent of vanilla ice cream. Not great to be honest. http://www.saintmonon.be ABV 6.5%

Half an hour away is the beautiful little town of Durbuy, home of the Ferme au Chene who produce Marckloff, a delicious amber beer. Enjoying their brew on the terrace was heaven on such a hot day. ABV 6.5%

Our next stop was Bouillon, on the Semois river and home to the Marche de Nathalie beer store – more beer to squeeze into the back of the car. Nathalie’s shop celebrated its 20th anniversary last year and when I had a chat with her I reminisced about my first visit many years ago when a bottling plant ran through the centre of the shop. This was to bottle the celebrated Cuvee de Bouillon, a brew that I am very fond of. Nowadays beers are produced off site and the Brasserie de Bouillon produces six regular beers plus ‘tailored’ beers for villages and groups according to their specific recipes.

No visit to Bouiloon would be complete without a visit to the Vielle Ardenne where you can enjoy the full range of Dubuisson’s beers – we opted for Cuvee des Trolls tripel, ABV 7% and Surfine Saison, ABV 6.5%. Dubuisson is Wallonia’s oldest brewery. We also snuck in a cheeky one at the Estaminet, a lovely and friendly little bar with an interesting beer list.

We then headed to Mechelen, home of the Het Anker brewery and Gouden Carolus beers. We stayed at the brewery hotel and had a wonderful tour (which has been reviewed previously). Unfortunately, the brasserie was being refurbished so we headed out into Mechelen for a beer after the tour. Brasserie Den Beer kept us watered and sheltered from the torrential rain – a shame as there was an open air concert taking place. Still, the bitterballen, cheese and Gouden Carolus tripel kept our spirits up.

Het Anker brewery tour - the best bit! — Het Anker brewery tour – the best bit!

Dinner was taken at Afspraak, 23 Keizerstraat, a cafe with a huge beer list and a wide-ranging menu. Be warned, unless you love a bucket-full of julienne-thin string fries, the 2 person local dish ‘Steppengras’ is best avoided – there are plenty of other menu choices. As a night cap we planned on visiting the Stillen Genieter which has sadly finally closed after over 30 years. However, next door at De Gouden Vis we discovered another great bar – great beer list, good looking food and a very jazz-oriented set list in the background. Perfect for a De Konninck.

Back to Brugge – only seems like a few weeks since I was here! First stop had to be ‘t Terastje, 45 Genthof and to enjoy more of Ian and Patricia’s hospitality. Wifey was itching to get back here and enjoy her favourite draft Straffe Hendrik Tripel, ABV 9%. I decided to see what all the fuss has been about (they have won medals at te World Beer Awards) and opted for the Kasteel Triplel 11, ABV 11%.

Onwards to Cafe Vlissinghe, 2a Blekersstraat to wish them a happy 500th anniversary and buy a souvenir t-shirt. There was also Bruno’s house beer to try too, brewed by Fort Lapin. A beautiful, hazy, amber beer that is very addictive and goes well with the salami and cheese plate! ABV 8%

No trip to Brugge is complete without a trip to see Daisy at ‘t Brugs Beertje, 5 Kemelstraat. Enough has been written about Daisy’s and I just want to say that it is probably my favourite bar in the world. No, definitely my favourite. We were lucky to arrive at a time when Daisy’s huisbier was available on draft. Specially commissioned by De Dolle Brouwers, Essen we bought some bottles too and these will be reviewed within the next two weeks. ABV 10%

't Brugs Beertje huisbier — ‘t Brugs Beertje huisbier

An overnight stay in Watou at Het Wethuys, wonderful food and St Bernardus’ beers – how much more beer can I fit into the boot – and then home. Looking forward to going back already!